Idris Hotel

Uttar Pradesh’s capital city has an astounding history. It’s easy to lose yourself in the stories and legends that pop up all over the sights to see (like the Bara Imambara) and on guided heritage walks. It’s a history that also creeps into the city’s culinary heritage. The nawabs who ruled this region a couple of centuries ago contributed significantly to the kebabs and slow-cooking styles that continue to reign supreme. We look at a few must-eat-at spots in Lucknow that have helped put it on the country’s food map.

“Idris ki biryani” is a phrase that is bound to come up in conversation about biryani in the city. The mutton biryani here is dreamy, with flavourful saffron-stained yellow rice, and meat that’s tender enough to fall off the bone, but there are many others to choose from too. The restaurant isn’t the best for a sit-down meal, so it’s best to just stop by and order takeaway.

Address: Victoria St, 292/41, Raja Bazar, Chowk, Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh 226003

Tunday Kababi

Meat eaters, listen up: if there’s one thing to eat in this city, it is the galouti kebab. This iconic century-old institution dishes out small plates of minced meat patties, fresh out of the oil. According to legend, this kind of kebab was made for an old nawab who’d lost all his teeth but still wanted to eat meat – which explains why it literally melts in your mouth. Tunday Kababi has a few outlets in the city – the one at Chowk is the original.

Rattilal’s

It’s not all about meat in Lucknow. Case in point: the food of the Rastogis, a wealthy Hindu business community that forms an important part of the city’s population. At Rattilal’s, which has been open for over 75 years, you get to sample this food. Khasta kachori, vada and aloo-chana makes for a hearty on-the-go meal. Wash it all down with some sweet badam milk, or opt for fresh, crispy jalebis for dessert.

Address: B-12, Sania Market, Rattilal Chauraha, Shivaji Marg, Aminabad, Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh 226018

Street food in Chowk

Lucknow’s street food scene is definitely worth exploring – and if there’s one place in the city that’s home to it all, it’s Chowk. This market may be old, but it’s as alive as ever – locals bustle to and fro, car honks and vendors cry for attention, shops sell all manner of wares, but don’t let it daunt you. Focus on your search for street stalls selling chaat – like the gyara pani-wala pani puri, which takes your average pani puri up several notches by swapping the usual tamarind water for 11 other varieties. Expect a new flavour every round: everything from mint and mango to ginger, green chilli and lime is fair game. In the winter months, keep your eyes peeled for stalls selling nimish (also called mallaiyyo or malai makhan), a light-as-air, creamy foam that comes sprinkled with saffron and pistachios.

Address: Chowk, Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh 226003

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